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La Turbie, Grande Face Sector

La Grande Face de la Turbie (© P. Gatta)

Introduction

La Grande Face, also called " Jacob ", is the sector of La Turbie with the highest number of routes graded 7 (25) and 8 (19). The routes offer various climbing styles with lots of tuffas and multiples routes over 30 meters high. This place is amazing with a direct view over the sea and Monaco.

PDF version of this topo.

La Grande Face of la Turbie (© P. Gatta)

Information

Location	La Turbie, ~20 minutes drive from Nice, Alpes Maritimes, France.
Road access	Take the A8 highway and exit at La Turbie or take the road D45 or D2564. From la Turbie drive toward Cap D’Ail on the D37 and after 200 meters, take to the left, the road of La Tête de Chien. Park at the end of the road (1.3 km from La Turbie). GPS: 7º 24’ 7.1" E / 43º 43’ 54.4" N.
Access to the cliff	From the parking take a small trail going down to the crag, pass a small tunnel, continue straight up hundred meters to the top of the Tête de chien. Take a small trail onto the right going down (see the photo below). The trail progressively turns toward the East and goes to the bottom of the North Face. Continue to the right, following the bottom of the North Face until the corner of the Grande Face at the start of the Crépuscule route. GPS: 7º 24’ 12.8" E / 43º 43’ 50.9" N.
Best climbing season	All year round but spring and fall are better. The crag is in shade after noon. Avoid climbing when it’s cloudy and during the Formula 1 race in Monaco.
Routes	52 routes from 6a to 8b. Require a 70 to 80 meters rope. More or less steep with a few overhangs. Routes opened by: L. Jacob, J. Cabaret, P. Pessi, P. Maurel, A. Franco...
Bolts	Philippe Gatta and Pascal Clémenti rebolted 20 routes with Ring Bolt. The other routes are bolted with old 10mm hangers sometimes in bad shape.

Routes description of La Turbie, Grande Face

Selection of routes

• Graded 6: Monte Queue 6c+
• Graded 7: Le Pays ou rèvent les fourmis vertes 7a+, Blue Oyster cult 7b+, Pendulum 7b, Ozone 7c, Coiffeur pour hommes 7c+, Un enfant de toit 7c
• Graded 8: Terre de feu 8a+, Heart Breaker 8a (#31)

Photos and Videos

Access to the cragg (© P. Gatta)