Gorges du Loup, Deverse Sector
Introduction - Gorges du Loup, Deverse
Deverse, also called Pupuce Surplomb (name of an aid climbing route) is the hardest cliff of Gorges du Loup in term of difficulty. The first free climbing route was Déversé Satanique, open by Bernard Duterte in the mid 80’s. Now graded 8a+ ” soft ” it remains a fantastic climb.
Deverse offers 50 routes above 8a (5.13b), including three 9a (5.14d) : KinematiX (first ascent by Andreas Bindhammer), Abyss (opened and first ascent by Alex Chabot) and PuntX (opened by Cédric Lo Piccolo and first ascent by Alex Chabot).
Deverse is a summer cliff. The conditions are pleasant, even when it is 30 degrees Celsius on the Riviera, thanks to the shade and a constant light wind.
| Location | Left side of the Gorges du Loup, ~45 minutes drive from Nice, Alpes Maritimes, France. |
| Road access | Around 45 minutes from Nice. Follow the road D2210 or D6 toward Pont du Loup. Continue on the road D6 (called “route des Gorges”) toward Gréolière. Park the car on the left, just after the first tunnel. GPS: 7º 0’ 1.55″ E / 43º 44’ 19.5″ N. |
| Access to the cliff | 5 minutes walk. From the parking go up on the road for 100m (along an overhanging cliff), take the first steep trail on the right and follow it to the cliff. GPS: 7º 0’ 5.4″ E / 43º 44’ 20.7″ N. |
| Best climbing season | From May to October. it’s one of the few cliffs in the area which remains cool in summer. It is on the shade until noon and after 6pm. The cliff is very overhanging and it is not exposed to the rain, but if it’s raining heavily, the water may poor from the top onto the routes for several days. |
| Routes | 70 routes from 6a to 9a, 50+ above 8a. Mostly overhanging and athletic, a few tuffas, pockets and many chipped holds. |
| Bolts | Well bolted overall. Most quickdraws are already in place but be careful with the slings… |
Routes description of Deverse
Left side
Right side
Selection of climbing routes in Deverse
- Graded 7: Ligne Noire 7a, Satan petit coeur 7b, Mekanik 7c. Avoid the routes on the left of 7pm JP show.
- 8a: Pas vu pas pris(R2), Once I had a friend (R3), Sika (R1), Vigor, La ligne noire (R2), Cascade
- 8a+: Déversé Satanique, Dies Irae, Qoussaï, Super Tango (R1), Pas vu pas pris (R3)
- 8b: Soul Sacrifice
- 8b+: Hot Chili Beans Volcano, Karoshi
