Aiguille Chardonnet (3,824m) is a beautiful peak of Mont Blanc Massif and the Arête Forbes is probably its most popular route.
Sunrise on Aiguille Chardonnet and the Arête Forbes on the left (© P. Gatta)
Joseph Crettex, Maurice Crettex and Paul Sisley opened the route in august 1899. It is graded AD 3b III.
Anna and I left the small village of Le Tour at around 3am aiming to climb the Arête Forbes in one long round trip.
Above the Bosse (© P. Gatta)
We reached the Albert 1er hut in 2h20. Then we continued up to pass below Col Superieur du Tour and then reached the base of the Aiguille du Chardonnet.
Anna and I above the Bosse, photo taken by P. Gabarrou (© P. Gabarrou)
The route follows a first gully and then a steep glacier called the Bosse.
Aiguille Chardonnet (© P. Gabarrou)
Above the Bosse, continue to a large pinnacle at around 3,700m where the actual ridge starts.
Aiguille Chardonnet (© P. Gabarrou)
Follow the ridge to the top, there are multiple Gendarmes to climb or to avoid, often on the North side. The hardest climb is graded III.
Aiguille Chardonnet (© P. Gabarrou)
The descent from the top is quite long.
Summit of Aiguille Chardonnet (© P. Gatta)