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Aiglun, cliff of Giet

The cliff of Entonnoir and Mont St Martin seen from Aiglun (© P. Gatta)

Introduction

The cliff of Giet at Mont St Martin close to the village of Aiglun is the nicest multi-pitch cliff of the French Riviera. There are thirty routes ranging from 200m to 300m high in various styles: free climbing, aid climbing, well bolted or adventures.
There is also another cliff amazing called the Paroi Dérobée (or Fume Blanche). It offers outstanding multi-pitch routes such as Ali Baba (250m : 8a, 8a, 7b+, 8a, 8a, 8a+, 8a, 7b+) or les 40 voleurs (330m : 7c, 7b+, 7c, 7a, 8a+, 7c+, 7b+, 8a, 7c, 6b).

We can climb all year round but the cliff is facing South so it's very hot in summer.

Cliff of Aiglun (© P. Gatta)

Information

Location	Left side of the Esteron at the end of Aiglun's canyon, 1h15 minutes drive from Nice, Alpes Maritimes, France.
Road access	Around 1h15 minutes from Nice. Take the road D17 in the Estéron valley passing through Gilette and Roquestéron. Just before Sigale, take left on the road D10 to the village of Aiglun. Park the car at then end of the village. GPS : 6º 54'53; 1.55" E / 43º 51'29" N.
Access to the cliff	25 minutes walk. Take a small trail 100 m after the parking which goes toward the cliff.
Best climbing season	Spring and fall are best but it's possible to climb all year round. In summer start early and avoid sunny hours, in winter it may be cold and take a head torch as the days are short and the routes long...
Routes	Around 30 routes graded TD (very hard) to ABO (extremely hard). The shortest routes are on the right and 100 m high. The longest are in the center and 300 m high. We can find all styles: steep wall, slabs, dihedral, overhang and even tufas..
Bolts	It varies a lot depending on the routes: some are very well bolted (spits and good anchors), some require pitons, friends, nuts, slings, etc.
Topo	L'escalade dans les Alpes Maritimes by Jean-Claude Raibaud, Alticoop Edition.

Selection of best routes at Aiglun

• L'artisan du huitieme jour: EX, 250m, bolted with spits, 10 pitches : 7b/c, 6b, 7b+, 7b, 6c+, 6b+, 6c+, 7a+, 7a+, 3.
• Croquignol et Sword fish trombones: EX-, 300m, bolted with spits, 13 pitches : 7a, 6a, 6b+, 6b, 7a, 7a, 7a+, 3, 7c, 6b+, 6a+, 6b+, 7b.
• Goutte à goutte: TD+, 210m, bolted with spits, 7 pitches : 6b, 6b, 5, 5+, 6a, 6b+, 6a.
• Chevreuils du Calendal: TD, 220m, bolted with spits, 9 pitches : 5+, 6a, 5+, 5, 5+, 5+, 6a+, 4+, 5+.

Photos of Aiglun

Anna in Masotherapie pour tendons maniaques (© P. Gatta)

Philippe in Masotherapie, 2 climbers behind (© P. Gatta)

Anna in Masotherapie, two climbers in Cocotte Minute (© P. Gatta)