Philippe Gatta
Version française

Grand Capucin (3838 m)
Bonatti Route - Mont Blanc Massif, France

Top of Grand Capucin (Wikimedia)
Top of Grand Capucin (Wikimedia)

The Grand Capucin

The Grand Capucin is a great peak located in the Mont Blanc Massif. The East and South faces offer high quality climbs.

To reach the route, start from Torino hut, Cosmiques hut or the Aiguille du Midi. Jon the Combe Maudite then climb up the Aiguillettes couloir (see the left photo below). The rimaye can be tricky.

Sun rise on Grand Capucin (© P. Gatta)
Sun rise on Grand Capucin (© P. Gatta)

Top of Grand Capucin (Wikimedia)
Top of Grand Capucin (Wikimedia)

Bonatti Route:

350m, ED+ (or TD aid climbing), open by Walter Bonatti and Luciano Ghigo 20 - 23 July 1951.
Guide book: Guide Vallot Mont Blanc Tome 1 and Topo du Massif du Mont Blanc Tome II de M. Piola

Rimaye of Aiguillettes couloir (© P. Gatta)
Rimaye of Aiguillettes couloir (© P. Gatta)

View over the rimaye and Aiguilettes couloir (© P. Gatta)
View over the rimaye and Aiguilettes couloir (© P. Gatta)

Crossing under the first big roof, 6b+ (© P. Gatta).

Crossing under the first big roof, 6b+ (© P. Gatta)

The Trident 3639m (© P. Gatta).

The Trident 3639m (© P. Gatta)

40m wall, 6c+ (© P. Gatta).

40m wall, 6c+ (© P. Gatta)

40m wall, 6c+ (© P. Gatta).

40m wall, 6c+ (© P. Gatta)

40m wall, 6c+ (© P. Gatta).

40m wall, 6c+ (© P. Gatta)

6b/c pitch after the 2nd bivy of Bonatti (© P. Gatta).

6b/c pitch after the 2nd bivy of Bonatti (© P. Gatta)

Anna Gatta in the last pitch with the Trident below (© P. Gatta).

Anna Gatta in the last pitch with the Trident below (© P. Gatta)

APeuterey ridge and Grand Pilier d'Angle (© P. Gatta)

Peuterey ridge and Grand Pilier d'Angle
(photo taken from the top of Grand Capucin) (© P. Gatta)

Rappel dans l'Echo des Alpages (© P. Gatta).

Abseiling in Echo des Alpages (© P. Gatta)

Other peaks of Mont Blanc Massif are described in the following pages:



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